Backpacking The Ettrick Hills

This was a walk which had been on @ianwood2011 and my radar for quite a while. The weather window was Mon/Tues of this week, and after an easy drive up through the Eskdalemuir Forest we parked beside the Ettrick Water near Crook Cottage.

Last minute checks to make sure we haven't forgotten anything!

Glad to leave the tarmac and start to gain some height on the South side of the valley.

The fist summit of the day as we head Southwest...ish was Ettrick Pen, a Donald, Marilyn and Graham.

It had been dull and overcast since we'd left the car, but as we descended Ettrick Pen the sun was trying to break through. 

Ian on the Donald Hopetoun Craig, with Ettrick Pen receding into the distance.

Last summit of the day Wind Fell, not particularly windy...but very wet underfoot!

A knee punishing descent over pathless tussocks brought us to the col of Ettrick Head.
Take ggood notice you'll see a very similar scene later on!

Following the Southern Upland Way down into the valley to Over Phawhope, an MBA Bothy.
In very good order....lets hope it stays that way.

We were carrying tents but as the bothy was unoccupied (although a cyclist did turn up later) we decided to take advantage of the stove and stay inside.

After a decent nights sleep we woke to dense mist/cloud. But it soon became clear that higher the sun would be shining.

Sure enough the inversion tarted to appear as we headed back up to Ettrick Head.

Back at Ettrick Head and time for the climb to Capel Fell.

Ian looking back towards the Ettrick valley, still filled with mist.

From the summit of Capel Head the view to the North meant we could see the hills North of Moffatdale.

Meanwhile West was Croft Head.

Looking North into Black Hope, Hart Fell being the high point.

Our route lay generally Northeast, the next hill being the Donald Bodesbeck Law.

A stiff climb up pretty pathless terrain and the summit arrived, this is the view North.

The broad ridge undulates (lots of them) Eastwards towards Mid Hill.

The next Donald is Bell Craig, from here White Comb is the hill above Loch Sween across Moffatdale.  

This is the summit of Andrewhinny Hill, the last "listed" hill of our trip. Another Donald, Marilyn, Graham.

Before we descended back to the Ettrick Water, we walked over to Mid Hill (another one) and its ancient cairn.

Mid Hill's Southeast ridge led us unerringly back to the valley and the car.
Fortunately it had a quad track for much of the way which made for quicker progress.
It had been a great trip, we only saw 1 person and his dog on the hill 30km of solitude, the Southern Uplands deserve a better press we thought.

A Walk Beside Coniston Water

We've done this walk a couple of times before, I've written about it on the blog. Anyway today's outing was characterised by an almost complete lack of other folk. The sun shone intermittently, Its a favourite of ours...so no doubt we'll do it again!

Across the fields to Coniston Hall, overlooked by the snow capped "Old Man"

Past the farm and here were a number of "Scratting Hens"

Beside the lakeshore we were accompanied by a large flock of Canada Geese

Nice to be out and see some blue sky!

We returned to Coniston and the car via the old railway trackbed.
A really pleasant stroll.

 

Bikepacking a Cairngorm Loop

I'd planned to ride the Cairngorm Loop (details Here ) over the recent Bank Holiday weekend, but a heavy cold put paid to that idea :-( . However I had another opportunity to make an attempt over the weekend just gone. An early start, easy drive and 230 miles later I was unloading the bike from the car at Old Bridge of Tilt car park.  I should mention there's lots of photos here...many featuring a bicycle as foreground interest...Sorry!

So all loaded up, no rucksack needed 36hrs food ( I planned to buy more on route)...I set off at 10.40am. Would I make it back in under 56hrs?

Firstly through the grounds of  Blair Castle, taking Sustrans Route 7 Northwards ( This is the old A9) much of which I remembered from journeys up and down it as a child.
A feature of this long uphill drag was the headwind, this would be a menace for the much of the day.

I left the tarmac at Dalnacardoch and headed up the Gaick Pass track...good going at this point, except for the wind.

The double track finishes just beyond the ruinous Sronphadruig Lodge.

The path is little wider than a sheep/deer track as it contours above Loch an Duin on its Western side. The narrow glen funneling the Northerly wind. This is remote country, you're a long way from tarmac hereabouts.

The track improves again and the descent past Loch Bhrodainn and Gaick Lodge was easy going giving me the chance to take in the grandeur of my surroundings.

Looking back from whence I'd come, tarmac and Glen tromie were just round the corner.

Bhran Cottage, I was here in May on this years TGO Challenge...in alot of pain!

Off road again at Drumguish as I headed over to Glen feshie, the weather was certainly as forecast. Warm and dry.

Things certainly slowed down once I left Inshriach Forest and set off along the singletrack round Loch Gamha and Loch an Eileen

Over to the Cairngorm Club footbridge, and some easier tracks round Loch Morlich. I was looking forward to some food at the shop near the campsite. It was shut!! a bit of a blowand I knew I was behind the rough schedule I'd set myself. 

The bar was open at "Glenmore Lodge" though. I had a soup and snack in the comfort of the bar and realised that getting to the Fords of Avon before nightfall wasn't going to happen.

As I left "Glenmore Lodge" the cool of the evening hit me. I put plenty of effort in as I passed Lochan Uaine. Just past the junction to Ryvoan a reindeer hind and her calf wandered across the track in front of me. I could see lots of tents near Ryvoan Bothy...I hoped there would be space at the site of the old Bynack Stable......

I was lucky there was just 1 tent already there, I asked the guy if he minded me camping there....Ok "as long as I was Quiet"! He replied!!

I slept well, hardly any surprise bearing in mind the effort I'd put in yesterday. The highest section of the Loop was next.

Its a long climb up over the shoulder of Bynack More, very little of the path is rideable...at least by me!
The views to the North compensated for my toils though.

A short descent into Coire Odhar followed by a gentle climb to this point. Then its pretty much rideable down to and beside Loch a Bhainne.

Although these boulders weren't! Good view of the Barns of Bynack from here.

Fords of Avon refuge...I'd never have got here in daylight, so a it had been a good decision to camp when I did.

The river was low thank goodness, it was still well above knee height and dragging/pushing a bike through water that depth and strong flow is difficult.

The climb up to the top of the Lairaig an Laoigh was purgatory :-( it took an age...The only time on the trip I questioned my sanity.
Roughly in the centre of this photograph is the Hutchinson Hut for scale...Big Country!

The descent was great, almost all rideable if very technical.
Last time I was here these trees were behind a fence for protection from deer browsing, they've grown well.

The new footbridge at Derry Lodge, 2pm and it was time for a re-assessment of my goals. I was way behind now, with no real chance of finishing within 56hrs.
Time to take the pressure off and take an easier route back to Blair Atholl, and enjoy the moment.

The heather was amazing, as good as I've ever seen it.

I just touched the tarmac at Linn of Dee before heading out into the wilds again on my way to White Bridge and beyond.

Socks off to cross the Geldie Burn, in hindsight I shouldn't have bothered it was so warm they would have dried quickly anyway. Beinn a Ghlo in the background, I'd soon be riding down Glen Tilt below its steep flanks.

Upper Glen Tilt a lot of this is rideable although not all of it by any means.

Fall of Tarf, I knew it was all good from here. Its not all downhill mind...not by any means!

Falls in Lower Glen Tilt.
From here I was soon back at the car at Old Bridge of Tilt. So the "Cairngorm Loop" had defeated me on this occasion. An earlier start by a couple of hours would have made a big difference I think?
I did of course complete " A Cairngorm Loop" and enjoyed 95% of the trip....the Hike-A-Bike up to Lairaig an Loaigh I could do without!
For those interested in my exact route a Strava log is here